It's been 6 months since our trip to that beautiful mountain kingdom of Bhutan and now ask anyone I know, I shamelessly promote tourism to that country. One thing I tried to do when I started on my trip was to maintain a diary of my day to day experiences in Bhutan - I feel bad to say that I failed miserably. The detailed posts only lasted 3 days and the rest were notes and scribbles of thing I found very interesting. This morning, I found that diary hidden and forgotten among some HR books and in that was a detailed description of the most amazing day I had in Bhutan - the climb to the Tatksang Monastery. While I gave the essence of it in my Bhutan post a few months ago, I definitely feel the need to put down the details of this particular day; so here we go.
As we arrived into Paro the previous evening, we were already mesmerized by the pristine beauty of this country. The stories of green mountains, rolling fog, beautiful trees from the fairy tales seemed very real here. 7:45 am, the next day and we were ready to go; this was the part we were looking forward to - the climb to the Tatksang Monastery. The Tatksang Monastery or Tiger's Nest Monastery as it is popularly known is built along a cliff in the Upper Paro valley. The story I was told goes: Guru Rinpoche arrived on this cliff on the back of a flying Tigeress from Tibet and meditated here for 3 years, 3 months, 3 weeks and 3 days in a cave, thus anointing the spot to build a monastery there. He is considered the Protector Saint of Bhutan and according to some, is believed to have introduced Buddhism to the region.
A little after 8 am and we found ourselves at the car park at the base of the mountain. Our guide + driver Kinzang had come prepared with sticks to help us hike. This trail is like no other - Cut through the mountains just enough to be a path, it is rugged, rocky and if it rains, the mud turns to slush, turning the trail into a slippery slide. The trail does not start off easy; right from the base, it is rough. Your eyes need to be focused on the path ahead; you never know when one stray root or stone can knock you down. Heaven forbid, if you tumble a few steps far too left, you will find yourself rolling down the side of the valley. Having said that, everyone attempting the climb was very enthusiastic at the start. About a km into the climb and my sister decides that she cannot continue. No amount of pushing and prodding from me or Kinzang helped. She decided to head back down to the base and wait while we returned.
My climb wasn't any easier. For one, I climbed a few kms ahead and threw up all my breakfast at the side of the mountain. For another, the mountains gave me a damn good reality check of my fitness level; the result - extremely unfit. I stopped every few kms to let my body relax and recuperate. The trek has two major stops before you reach the monastery; commonly called view point 1 & 2. The climb to the first view point was tough, very tough. After about 3/4th of the journey to the first view point, the monastery shows itself from across the valley, hidden slightly in the fog. What kept me going, apart from my determined desire to see the monastery were the people along the route. Believe me, you do find people who are more or less in your situation - huffing, puffing, stopping every few minutes. The encouragement I received was tremendous. Random strangers pushing you to keep going and you, in turn encouraging the other tired souls. The guides also keep you entertained with stories and legends from the place - how you need to make a trip to the monastery 3 times to have a deep desire fulfilled, how these mountains have also been the death place of tourists who have gone over the edge while taking pictures.
The first view point arrives and I am so mighty proud of myself, am almost celebrating with a victory dance; although I know I still have a long way to go. The Monastery is now clearly visible, a valley away. As we were reaching there, my guide gets a call from the tourist office at the base that my sister has asked for a horse and will be arriving at the first view point in a while. As horses are allowed only up to this point, we had to wait before before we proceeded. Meanwhile, Kinzang told me of how all Bhutanese people including the Royal family make it to the monastery on foot. No horses or other preferential treatment for anyone. There are also a group of people who make the trip every week or sometimes twice a week carrying food supplies to the monks living there. Yep, my mind was officially blown. Carrying my own weight there was bad enough for me, now imagine doing that with a 50 kg bag of rice on your bag. Respect! My sister arrived 45 minutes later and meanwhile, I soaked in every bit of fresh mountain air that my lungs could take. The serenity is unbeatable. The chattering noises from the tourists resting here only lasts a while and the silence takes over again.
As we continued onward, I could distinctly feel the air getting thinner making it harder and harder to breathe. My legs were no longer the problem. The nose and forehead has started throbbing, all signs of high altitude and cold weather. The energy to carry on was there but breathlessness became a concern for me. They say this can be taken care of by having altitude sickness medicine before you start your trip to such places. My sister had had some and I didn't and maybe that's why I felt this much more than her. A few short and deep breaths helped me make it every 100 steps. View point 2 was my short term goal - On making it there, I would decide if I wanted to continue 350 steps down and 350 steps up to the monastery or I would be content with the view from there. A bite of an energy bar and some huffing and puffing later, view point 2 had arrived. The monastery was closer and in full view but still a valley across. The view is magical. Gleaming and glittering in the sunlight, it was beckoning everyone towards it. A little break to relax and take pictures and Kinzang had started egging us to move quickly.
It was nearly 12 pm and the monastery shuts at 1 for lunch; which meant we would need to wait for an hour if we reached late. How I climbed down those rickety, half broken stone steps and back up again, I don't know but we made it. At 12:30 pm, we were at the monastery door. It is when you arrive at the spot that you fully realize the brilliance behind the construction of the place. Standing so precariously on the side of the cliff, it is almost floating in the air. I kept wondering how they managed to construct in the first place almost centuries ago and again recently about a decade or so ago, when the monastery caught fire and some parts had to be rebuilt. We quickly went from room to room and spent a few seconds in quiet reflection. All my thoughts were all and only in gratitude. I took a few seconds to peek down from one of their balcony area; you only see a never ending valley. The 4 hour trek up culminated in 30 minutes of seeing the monastery and it was time to head back down. Heading down is intense pressure on your knees and ankles but takes you far lesser time than climbing up. There are quite a few shortcut, very steep ones for the climb up mind you; that we avoided earlier and we happily took on the way down.
Two hours flat and we were back where we started. You couldn't rub the smiles off our faces as hard as you tried. I knew my legs were going to give the minute I reached home but for now there was no pain. It was now time of an well deserved meal and more deserved rest. People visit the monastery for many reasons and to have many desires fulfilled; for me it was to see the sheer beauty of this place. For that and only that reason, I am always ready to go back to Bhutan.
As we arrived into Paro the previous evening, we were already mesmerized by the pristine beauty of this country. The stories of green mountains, rolling fog, beautiful trees from the fairy tales seemed very real here. 7:45 am, the next day and we were ready to go; this was the part we were looking forward to - the climb to the Tatksang Monastery. The Tatksang Monastery or Tiger's Nest Monastery as it is popularly known is built along a cliff in the Upper Paro valley. The story I was told goes: Guru Rinpoche arrived on this cliff on the back of a flying Tigeress from Tibet and meditated here for 3 years, 3 months, 3 weeks and 3 days in a cave, thus anointing the spot to build a monastery there. He is considered the Protector Saint of Bhutan and according to some, is believed to have introduced Buddhism to the region.
A little after 8 am and we found ourselves at the car park at the base of the mountain. Our guide + driver Kinzang had come prepared with sticks to help us hike. This trail is like no other - Cut through the mountains just enough to be a path, it is rugged, rocky and if it rains, the mud turns to slush, turning the trail into a slippery slide. The trail does not start off easy; right from the base, it is rough. Your eyes need to be focused on the path ahead; you never know when one stray root or stone can knock you down. Heaven forbid, if you tumble a few steps far too left, you will find yourself rolling down the side of the valley. Having said that, everyone attempting the climb was very enthusiastic at the start. About a km into the climb and my sister decides that she cannot continue. No amount of pushing and prodding from me or Kinzang helped. She decided to head back down to the base and wait while we returned.
My climb wasn't any easier. For one, I climbed a few kms ahead and threw up all my breakfast at the side of the mountain. For another, the mountains gave me a damn good reality check of my fitness level; the result - extremely unfit. I stopped every few kms to let my body relax and recuperate. The trek has two major stops before you reach the monastery; commonly called view point 1 & 2. The climb to the first view point was tough, very tough. After about 3/4th of the journey to the first view point, the monastery shows itself from across the valley, hidden slightly in the fog. What kept me going, apart from my determined desire to see the monastery were the people along the route. Believe me, you do find people who are more or less in your situation - huffing, puffing, stopping every few minutes. The encouragement I received was tremendous. Random strangers pushing you to keep going and you, in turn encouraging the other tired souls. The guides also keep you entertained with stories and legends from the place - how you need to make a trip to the monastery 3 times to have a deep desire fulfilled, how these mountains have also been the death place of tourists who have gone over the edge while taking pictures.
The first view point arrives and I am so mighty proud of myself, am almost celebrating with a victory dance; although I know I still have a long way to go. The Monastery is now clearly visible, a valley away. As we were reaching there, my guide gets a call from the tourist office at the base that my sister has asked for a horse and will be arriving at the first view point in a while. As horses are allowed only up to this point, we had to wait before before we proceeded. Meanwhile, Kinzang told me of how all Bhutanese people including the Royal family make it to the monastery on foot. No horses or other preferential treatment for anyone. There are also a group of people who make the trip every week or sometimes twice a week carrying food supplies to the monks living there. Yep, my mind was officially blown. Carrying my own weight there was bad enough for me, now imagine doing that with a 50 kg bag of rice on your bag. Respect! My sister arrived 45 minutes later and meanwhile, I soaked in every bit of fresh mountain air that my lungs could take. The serenity is unbeatable. The chattering noises from the tourists resting here only lasts a while and the silence takes over again.
As we continued onward, I could distinctly feel the air getting thinner making it harder and harder to breathe. My legs were no longer the problem. The nose and forehead has started throbbing, all signs of high altitude and cold weather. The energy to carry on was there but breathlessness became a concern for me. They say this can be taken care of by having altitude sickness medicine before you start your trip to such places. My sister had had some and I didn't and maybe that's why I felt this much more than her. A few short and deep breaths helped me make it every 100 steps. View point 2 was my short term goal - On making it there, I would decide if I wanted to continue 350 steps down and 350 steps up to the monastery or I would be content with the view from there. A bite of an energy bar and some huffing and puffing later, view point 2 had arrived. The monastery was closer and in full view but still a valley across. The view is magical. Gleaming and glittering in the sunlight, it was beckoning everyone towards it. A little break to relax and take pictures and Kinzang had started egging us to move quickly. Two hours flat and we were back where we started. You couldn't rub the smiles off our faces as hard as you tried. I knew my legs were going to give the minute I reached home but for now there was no pain. It was now time of an well deserved meal and more deserved rest. People visit the monastery for many reasons and to have many desires fulfilled; for me it was to see the sheer beauty of this place. For that and only that reason, I am always ready to go back to Bhutan.
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